I sat near the ocean with my flippers and cried. I love the surf: love the sea, the energy the water offers, the excitement of getting a marvelous wave. I’m as yet a beginner with a boogie board, dumps with pin so my cutoff points get tried routinely. This is something to be thankful for: it extends me to attempt new things, face a challenge, and experience the adventure of riding a mondo wave. Aside from Monday. It didn’t all go to design. The waves were significantly more extreme, much less unsurprising, and had significantly more power in them than the other day. I was terrified from the beginning. The water looked dim and profound, the waves raised up and finished off. I continued envisioning getting one just to get unloaded and stuck by the beat. Each time I went to paddle on a wave, I considered myself under a surge of water and pulled out of the ride. With each wave I stayed away from, the more terrified I became. Also, obviously, as you most likely are aware, the more energy and center you put resources into something, so it is showed. What’s more, all of a sudden there […]
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